3D printed kids clock (ESP32 LED symbols) "review"

2026-07-17 · hardware · 3d-printing · iot

I wanted to have a nice "Kids clock" for my daughter so she could see when she can get out of bed without screaming through the house that she is awake. During some random searches on printables.com I found the perfect (paid) project from Remindi. However, after printing and setting everything up I do have some notes for what could be improved.

The front is placed above the frame

All in all it was super easy to get this done (except the multicolored front)! Order some Wemos D1 Mini ESP32 and the 16x16 LED matrix (I had most of the other stuff laying around) and get to printing and soldering. Wiring wise I found a shortcut, namely to solder the GND, IO and VCC all to the Wemos. This way you do not have to split the main VCC line.

I had some unused Woodfill filament which turned out to make a wonderful filament for the frame, and the smell! However, the model is designed to to have the front sit "above" the frame, which in my opinion is rather ugly. The front is placed above the frame Luckily, you can cut of the top and left of the front flush which makes it a press fit, dab of hot glue and you are golden.

PrusaSlicer

Even though I think I know quite a bit about my 3D printer (currently a Prusa Core One+), it was really not straight forward doing multi color prints with a single extruder.

Bug in bridges when extruders are >= 4

But the biggest problem seems to be a bug in PrusaSlicer. Namely, that when I went to four extruders, the first layer with all bridges had weird circles instead of bridges! I could not resolve this no matter how many recoloring I did. In the end I had to merge the model, export the STL, repaint it by hand to get it to work. Circles when doing multi color printers when extruders are >=4

!
TODO

I did not yet submit to to PrusaSlicer as a bug, I should probably do so... Let me know if you did submit it already or also faces this problem.

Unwanted painting behavior in the presence of a cavity

Often bridged areas (all the symbols) are quite ugly. I remember seeing a calibration print on printables which I of course could not find. I did find however Imoto's 3D-print-perfect-bridge technique which is super cool but requires modifying the model. Luckily, I did find the real 3D Printing Bridge Calibration Test (Basic & Advanced). With this I settled on 20mm/s bridging speed and 1.95 bridging flow for my Prusa Core One+.

When printing the actual front model, this turned out to be horrible and it got quite ugly. Hence I though, why not just cut a big square cavity in the model and use the 'Imoto's 3D-print-perfect-bridge technique'? Sadly, the multi material painting was quite horrible on this and no matter what I did it tried to conically fade from one color to the other in the z-axis. So I gave up for this model.

Wishlist

Which brings me to my current list of improvements that I might one day do (or somebody else ;)).